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When compiling a ranking of London’s best dining spots, one might anticipate renowned award-winning venues. Yet, situated near the top among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu found in a outlying area of north London.

A Surprise Recognition

This compact Turkish spot, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the city by a respected gastronomic guide. The accolade has made the owners totally surprised.

“I’m utterly shocked,” remarks the family member, pointing to his parents’ dedication that led to their small place securing such a high spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has maintained much of its former charm. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the impressive live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s all about the food, and this eatery more than excels. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent quality.

The meat is then added into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty punch of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, giving it a more intense, nuttier and not overly sweet flavour.

Outranking the Stars

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, similar experiences at high-end establishments can run into many times that amount.

The Ethos of Heart

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and best food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is most important is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food did not work at elite restaurants. “I feel really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” concludes her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to become successful, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum used to be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is handmade; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

A Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is set to have meaning beyond its own premises. “I think numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the greater meaning of this culinary triumph.